It’s Totally san ‘wichcraft…

by Chris Crowley SOURCE Serious Eats

When is a sandwich not a sandwich? Is it a good 'wich or a bad 'wich? So many questions, so many things to try from Top Chef judge Tom Collicchio.

Tom Colicchio's sandwich shop 'wichcraft, with locations all over New York as well as in San Francisco and Las Vegas, is a reliable go-to for a weekday lunch. While their menu of dressed-up sandwiches generally stays pretty constant, they've recently introduced seven new ones to the roster. Of course, we tasted them all to find out which were best. Meet the new sandwiches (in approximate order of deliciousness).

 

Shrimp salad ($9.18): One of the standout new sandwiches, if only because shrimp salad tends to be so mayonnaise-y and mediocre. The slow-poached shrimp are flavorful and tender, and in a moderately creamy dressing, pair well with sharp crunch of arugula.  

 

Potato leek fritatta ($6.64): Sweet, eye-popping red roasted tomatoes made this sandwich especially tasty. The thick, juicy frittata slab picks up even more flavor from the tomato's juices. While the cheddar doesn't add too much, the sandwich is flavorful enough that it's hard to mind. 

 

Mozzarella and butternut squash ($6.20): A satisfying and interesting, if slightly bizarre, option. Thanks in part to the strong flavor of the hazelnut brown butter and the sweetness of the roasted squash, it has something of a dessert feel. The nuts add an interesting crunch to an otherwise smooth sandwich; it's nice to see 'wichcraft make an effort to give vegetarians interesting options.

 

Pork loin ($9.18): Paired with sharp provolone and simply braised kale, the thin cut of pork stays juicy and the crusty country bread really upgrades the whole thing. While the pairing is nothing new, it's still a tasty choice. 

 

Roasted free range chicken ($9.18): It's served on ciabatta with roasted cauliflower and green-olive aioli. Made richer by its own pan-drippings, the chicken was tender and tasty, for the most part, though some bites yielded dry meat. The just-cooked, minimally spiced cauliflower was a nice, simple touch.

 

Roasted eggplant ($7.81): While eggplant generally needs something to liven it up, this sandwich has too much going on. Drenched in marinade, the flavor of the eggplant is lost; however, the chickpeas do add a nice textural element. Though an interesting sandwich—particularly for vegetarians and vegans, given how dull meatless sandwiches can often be—we actually prefer the chopped chickpeas with roasted peppers

 

Blackened flank stank ($9.64): Comes with grilled scallions, romesco sauce, and white cheddar. The bread is firm and chewy; the scallions add a nice crunch and charred flavor. Though the meat is cooked well and of high quality, its flavor is unfortunately disguised by all the seasoning—almost as if they were trying to cover it up. In a steak sandwich, let the steak shine!